Downhill Demesne & Mussenden Temple

When I visit historical places I always imagine how it once was to live there. People that was actually spending their lives there. In this post I will be writing about the history of Downhill Demesne and Mussenden Temple in county (London)Derry. A beautiful estate with a nearby temple looking over the ocean.

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When visiting this spot you really do get that history soaked into you. My first thought was "geez it must've been super cold living up here, with the wind and all during cold winter months". It is located on the top of a hill looking over the ocean. The wind is very apparent and you can hear the waves crashing up on the cliff wall. Here you can wander around the ruins of the estate and gardens, and stroll down to the famous Mussenden Temple.

"I intend to build a Grecian temple in Frideswide's honour... I intend to build it on the edge of a cliff. It will give employment to the poor, to the district and employment."

The temple was built 1785 and is a part of Downhill Demesne. Demesne was a part of the estate of Frederick (4th Earl of Bristol). Lord Bristol had the temple built as a library and was inspired by the Temple of Vesta in Rome (see picture on right: photo credit to colosseumrometickets.com). It is thought his friend Micheal Shanahan helped him with the construction of the temple, as he many times went to visit Italy with Lord Bishop. Lord Bishop dedicated the temple to his niece, which he named "cher cousin", Frideswide Mussenden whose beauty he admired. In Freeman’s Journal it was suggested that the relationship between Lord Bishop and his niece was a bit more than what they lead on for it to be. This was however denied it print. Frideswide was married to an elderly banker named Daniel Mussenden, and this was a place where Lord Bishop said Frideswide could later retire and spend time in when she visited. The scandal, however, about the affair between the niece and Lord Bishop affected Frideswides health, and it's discussed that this could've been the reason of her early death. The temple that was built for her days of retirement became instead a memorial for when she died in 1785.

The walls of the temple was back then lined with bookcases and a fire was kept burning at all times in the basement to prevent the books from getting damp.

There is an inscription around the building which reads:

"Suave, mari magno turbantibus aequora ventis e terra magnum alterius spectare laborem."

The quotation is from Lucretius, De Rerum Natura, 2.1-2, and translates to: "Tis pleasant, safely to behold from shore. The troubled sailor, and hear the tempests roar".

The erosion of the cliff infront of Downhill has over the years brought it closer to the edge. So in 1997 The National Trust in Northern Ireland carried out a cliff stabilization to try and prevent the loss of the building. If you decide on a visit to the temple you can enjoy a coffe or tea from Al's Coffe Hut, just next to the free parking at Lion's Gate. Close by you also have the option to go down to the beach to view the temple from below. There is also a waterfall coming from the cliffs infront of the beach, on the other side of the road. The waterfall is however difficult to get to by foot as it is located next to the road, but a slow drive pass will not hurt anyone!

Adress to visit Downhill Demese & Mussenden Temple: 107 Sea Road, Castlerock, County Londonderry, BT51 4RP